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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: July 1st, 2023

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  • I have just dumped code into a Chrome console and saved a cert while in a pinch. It’s not best practices of course, but when you need something fast for one-time use, it’s nice to have something immediately available.

    You could make your own webpage that works in the browser (no backend) and make a cert. I haven’t published anything publicly because you really shouldn’t dump private keys in unknown websites, but nothing is stopping you from making your own.









  • Years (decades) ago it wasn’t uncommon to create self-signed/local CAs for active directory, but it’s really uncommon today since everything is internet facing and we have things like Let’s Encrypt.

    It’s so old, the “What’s New” article from Microsoft references Windows Server 2012 which is around when I stopped working on Windows Server. I kinda remember it, and you needing to add the server’s cert to your trusted roots. (I don’t know about Linux, but the concept is the same, I’m sure. I never tried generating certificates, but know all the other client -side stuff. Basically you need a way to fulfill CSRs.)

    https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/identity/ad-cs/

    What you’d want to do it in Windows is all there, and Microsoft made that pretty easy back then to integrate with all their platforms and services, but I’d caution, do you really want to implement 10+ year old tech?











  • NU7400 has a peak of 337 nits and that’s with the poorer contrast ratio of LCD. My LG C1 is 780 nits. I still find it a bit weak with the lights on so I can’t imagine 330 on LCD.

    Yeah, HDR is meant to be watched in a 5-nit environment, but sometimes that’s just not reasonable. While my LG is technically better, bright TV shows like Rings of Power are more enjoyable with the 1500 nits my TCL can output. Once that ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter) kicks in for the OLED, you absolutely need the blackout curtains.


  • I have both:

    • an 85" TCL R655 with a bunch of dimming zones that works great in my sunlight-heavy living room for both daytime viewing and family movie night.

    • a 55" LG C1 in my gaming/home-office/theater room with blackout curtains that is great for PC gaming and awesome theater experience.

    I would say it depends on your viewing environment. The inability of an OLED to get bright can ruin the experience. But my game room has blackout curtains and it’s enclosed.

    I just recently moved from 34" Ultrawide to just mounting the 55" onto my desk. It’s oversized for my viewing distance, but 4K resolution is 8million pixels so I rarely run apps in or near fullscreen anymore. I think a 42" LG OLED is perfect for PC. (Great out of the box calibration and 120hz G-Sync). Though QD-OLED on Samsung are technically better, I don’t trust them to run compensation cycles.

    If you’re worried about burn-in on PC, just set a screensaver to black your screen in 2 to 5 minutes. That’s why they were invented anyway (CRT era). For regular media consumption it’s a non-issue. Rtings set a static image for 120 hours on a Sony OLED and it basically went away with one compensation cycle.